How to Fit Gas Strut Brackets: Complete UK Step-by-Step Guide

Choosing the right gas strut is only half the job. The other half — often forgotten — is fitting the correct bracket. A perfectly sized strut with the wrong bracket will fail early, twist under load, or fall off during use.

This guide walks you through everything: understanding the bracket types, selecting the right one for your project, marking positions accurately, drilling, and fitting. You'll finish with a solid installation that lasts years.

Why Bracket Choice Matters

Gas strut brackets carry more than just the strut. They transfer force between the moving lid or panel and the fixed frame — sometimes with several hundred Newtons of pressure. A weak or misaligned bracket causes:

• Uneven lifting (one side rises before the other)
• Premature strut failure (twisted rod, blown seal)
• Frame damage where the bracket pulls out
• Complete disconnection under load
• Noise, rattle, and rough operation

Getting the bracket right is not optional. It's the foundation of the whole system.

The 7 Main Bracket Types Explained

Different projects need different bracket styles. Here's what each type is designed for.

1. Flat Mounting Plate

The universal choice. A flat metal plate with pre-drilled holes and a 10mm or 13mm ball stud sticking out. Bolts or screws through the plate holes into a flat surface — cabinet interior, bed frame, panel, or wall.

Best for: Ottoman beds, kitchen cabinets, most furniture applications.

2. Side Mount (Left or Right Hand)

An L-shape bracket where the ball stud faces sideways. Used when the strut runs parallel to a side panel — such as automotive bonnets and boot lids. Sold as LH or RH depending on which side of the vehicle.

Best for: Vehicle bonnets, tailgates, side-hinged mechanisms.

3. 90° L-Shape Bracket

A right-angle bracket that mounts onto a corner. Two faces bolt to two surfaces at 90°. Provides very strong fixing where flat plates wouldn't reach.

Best for: Corners in cabinets, vehicle bulkheads, custom fabrication.

4. Low Profile Compact Bracket

A slim version of the flat plate. Used where clearance is tight — cabinet interiors, small enclosed spaces, low-profile compartments.

Best for: Tight spaces where a standard bracket won't fit.

5. Quick Release / Pin-Type Bracket

Instead of a threaded ball stud, this uses an 8mm pin with a spring clip retainer. The strut socket clips onto the pin and releases with finger pressure. Faster to service.

Best for: Applications where the strut needs regular removal — service hatches, equipment lids.

6. Triangular Reinforced Bracket

Base is a triangle rather than a rectangle. Three fixing points spread the load across a wider area. Resists vibration and high-cycle wear.

Best for: Industrial use, vehicle applications with vibration, heavy-cycle beds.

7. Stainless Steel Bracket (A2 304)

Any of the above types, in stainless steel instead of zinc-plated. Corrosion resistant for marine, outdoor, salt-spray, and wet environments.

Best for: Boats, campervans, outdoor gates, coastal installations.

How to Choose the Right Bracket

Answer these three questions before ordering.

1. What's the Ball Stud Size on Your Strut?

Look at the gas strut end fitting. It's a small socket that snaps onto a metal ball. Measure that ball diameter:

• 10mm ball → 90% of UK gas struts (bed struts, cabinet struts, most vehicle struts)
• 13mm ball → Older or larger commercial applications
• 16mm ball → Industrial, truck cab tilts, heavy machinery

Match the bracket ball size to the strut socket. Mixing sizes causes disconnection under load.

2. What's the Mounting Surface Like?

• Flat surface with easy access on both sides → Flat plate bracket
• Flat surface on a side rail or bulkhead → Side mount (LH/RH)
• Two surfaces at 90° meeting at a corner → 90° L-shape
• Very limited clearance → Low profile compact
• Vibration or heavy cycling → Triangular reinforced
• Wet/marine/outdoor → Stainless steel version

3. What Force Is the Strut Rated At?

• Up to 400N → 10mm ball brackets sufficient
• 400-1000N → 10mm or 13mm ball depending on preference
• Over 1000N → 13mm or 16mm ball for load capacity

Tools You'll Need

• Tape measure or ruler
• Pencil or marker
• Cordless drill
• Correct drill bit (usually 4mm for M5 screws or 5mm for M6)
• Suitable screws or bolts (M5 or M6)
• Screwdriver or spanner (13mm for M6 bolts)
• Optional: level, awl, safety glasses

Step-by-Step: Fitting Gas Strut Brackets

Follow these steps carefully. Rushing here creates problems that show up later.

Step 1: Fully Open the Panel and Support It

Whatever you're fitting the strut to — bed base, bonnet, cabinet door — fully open it and support it with something rigid. Don't rely on the eventual gas strut to hold the panel while you fit brackets.

Step 2: Determine Bracket Positions

The gas strut needs to run at the correct angle for it to lift smoothly. Two rules of thumb:

• The strut should be fully compressed when the panel is closed (piston pushed in)
• The strut should be fully extended when the panel is fully open (piston pushed out)

Take a look at your existing bracket positions (if replacing) — the new brackets go in the same spots. If it's a new install, use the manufacturer's placement diagram or work off similar setups.

Step 3: Mark Bracket Positions

• Hold the bracket in place
• Use a pencil or marker through each pre-drilled hole to mark the surface
• Double-check both sides match before drilling (a level helps)
• If replacing brackets, mark the exact existing screw positions

Step 4: Drill Pilot Holes

Pilot holes prevent wood from splitting and metal from wandering under the drill bit.

• Wood surfaces: Use 3-4mm pilot for M5 screws
• Metal surfaces: Use 4-5mm bit matched to your bolt/screw
• Chipboard/MDF: Slightly smaller pilot than screw diameter

Step 5: Fit the Brackets

• Position bracket over pilot holes
• Start screws by hand, then tighten with power tool
• Don't over-tighten — you'll strip screw threads or dent the bracket
• Torque to snug + a quarter turn

Step 6: Repeat on the Moving Side

Fit the corresponding bracket to the moving panel (lid, door, bed base). This bracket must align with the fixed bracket so the strut runs straight.

Step 7: Attach the Gas Strut

• Snap the strut socket onto the ball stud
• You'll feel a positive click as the retention clip engages
• Test by pulling gently — the socket shouldn't come off with hand force
• Repeat for the other end and the second strut

Step 8: Test the Panel

• Slowly release the support
• Move the panel through its full range
• Watch for: strut binding, angle changes, uneven lift
• Make adjustments if needed before using regularly

Common Fitting Mistakes to Avoid

1. Mismatched Ball Stud Size

Fitting a 10mm socket to a 13mm ball (or vice versa) causes immediate disconnection or premature wear. Always match sizes exactly.

2. Wrong Bracket Position

Position the brackets too close together and the strut can't extend. Too far apart and it can't compress. Always test with a dry run before drilling.

3. Too-Small Pilot Hole in Wood

Wood splits along the grain when you force screws into undersized holes. Always drill a proper pilot.

4. Only Fixing 2 of 3 Bracket Holes

If a bracket has three fixing holes, use all three. Skipping one significantly reduces load capacity.

5. Fitting the Strut Upside Down

Gas struts should have the piston rod pointing downward when the panel is closed. Fitting upside down means the seal is always in the fluid — accelerates wear.

6. Over-Torquing Screws

Snug + quarter turn is enough. Cranking screws harder strips threads, dents brackets, and weakens the fixing.

FAQs

Can I use one bracket size for everything? No — bracket type depends on your specific mounting surface and application. A flat plate won't work in a corner where you need an L-shape.

Do I need to buy left AND right brackets? Only if using side mounts. Universal brackets (flat plates, L-shapes) work on either side.

Can I fit gas strut brackets to plastic? Yes, if the plastic is thick enough (5mm+) and reinforced. Use appropriate self-tapping screws. For thin plastic, add a metal or wood backing plate.

How tight should I torque the screws? Snug plus a quarter turn. Torque values aren't specified because they vary hugely by substrate. Feel matters more than a number here.

Can I use the old bracket holes for new brackets? Only if the new bracket has the same hole spacing. Different bracket brands use different patterns.

What if my bracket doesn't come with screws? Buy M5 × 25mm or M6 × 25mm screws separately, matched to your substrate (wood screws for wood, machine screws for metal).

Are stainless steel brackets worth the extra cost? For indoor use, no. For outdoor, marine, or wet applications, absolutely — zinc plated brackets rust and fail in 12-24 months in these environments.

Do I need washers? Yes for any bolt going through a soft substrate (thin metal, MDF, chipboard). Distributes load and prevents the head sinking in.

Shop Gas Strut Brackets at SpringFix UK

We stock 22 bracket styles to cover every fitting scenario:

• Gas Strut Mounting Brackets Collection →
• Flat plates, side mounts, 90° L-shapes, low profile, quick release, triangular reinforced
• Zinc plated and A2 304 stainless steel options
• 10mm and 13mm ball stud sizes
• Same-day dispatch on orders placed before 4pm

Need help choosing? Send us a photo of your current bracket and gas strut — we'll confirm the exact match before you buy.

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Article by SpringFix UK — Gas struts, brackets, and engineering hardware. UK based, UK dispatched.